At many of the book signing events for FALLING TO HEAVEN, people have asked me about whether I’d like to go back to Tibet. There is this expectation, I think, that I’ll get misty-eyed and say something like, “Oh yes, I would live there if I could.”
But my answer is, unequivocally, “No.” During the several years since 2003, when I was in Tibet, I’ve felt rather sheepish, even guilty, about my lack of desire to return. Didn’t I love it enough to write a book about it, after all?
There are some natural inconveniences built into going to Tibet. There’s the adjustment to the altitude, which takes a few days in which your heart pounds when you even stand up from your chair and going up a flight of stairs makes you feel like a salmon swimming upstream to spawn. There’s the poor hygiene, which led me to eat mostly fried rice with egg during most of my time there, and of course, the bathrooms, whose stenchy horrors defy description.
But that doesn’t explain my rejection of a return visit. I’ve dealt with other unhygienic places in which adjustment to local conditions required some effort.
It wasn’t until I read a recent article in the New York Times that I could put my finger on the exact reason for my discomfort. The article is entitled, “China’s Money and Migrants Pour into Tibet,” by Edward Wong. This piece covers a wide range of issues affecting Tibetans today, enumerating the factors that exacerbate the discontent among Tibetans.
The part that struck me involved a description of the Barkhor area. The Barkhor is a sort of plaza where there are many vendors and a lot of pilgrims. The Barkhor sprang up around the Jokhang Temple, one of the most famous temples in Tibet. Standing right outside the temple on any given day, one can see the faithful doing their prostrations. Many of them wear leather aprons and mitts for this purpose, which can signify that their current prostrations are simply part of a larger pilgrimage — pilgrimages can last for months, in which literally every inch of ground covered was done by means of prostrations in Tibet’s dry rocky soil. Some people in the Barkhor area are doing a simple set of koras, or circumambulations on a set clockwise path around the temple and plaza. All of these practices are believed by Tibetan Buddhists to accumulate merit towards a more favorable rebirth in the next lifetime (as a human, for example, instead of as a yak).
The Barkhor of today is patrolled by paramilitary troops in riot gear. They march counterclockwise, disrupting the clockwise route of pilgrims.
Worshippers go into the temple to pay their respects. Ah, but, actually they can’t quite do that normally either, as pictures of the Dalai Lama are banned everywhere in Tibet, even inside the temple and within private homes.
Imagine going to your place of worship, ready to connect with your God/gods, and being greeted by police in riot gear. Wouldn’t that be a bit distracting? Perhaps even intimidating, or terrifying? Picture a Christian church without any crosses — or a synagogue without a star of David anywhere in it?
In reality, the comparison I’m making here is a failure. We westerners live in very secular societies, so it is difficult for us to comprehend the level of intrusion Tibetans experience, as religion is so much more central to their lives than it is to ours.
The fact is, I have absolutely no desire to visit Tibet again. And reading about the police in riot gear and the rest helped me to pinpoint why that is. Even though there were no police in riot gear in 2003, I could not forget that I was visiting an occupied country. When I paid my Chinese coins to get into the Tibetan monasteries, it was impossible not to think of whose pockets I was lining. The Chinese have cleared the monasteries of thousands of monks and thus disrupted the transmission of teachings/trainings that are centuries old. And then they charge admission for you to go in and have the tourist-y Shangri-la experience of walking through those gorgeous but somewhat empty edifices.
There was a pall hanging over the Barkhor that arose from something else as well: desperate beggars. In all my travels through Mexico, Chile, and even more geographically similarly, Kathmandu, I’ve never seen beggars like I saw in Lhasa, while in the Barkhor area. There was a desperation that bordered on aggression. If you gave money to one, you would be immediately surrounded by 15 more. When I ran out of bills to give them, they fought over the bills I had given. At one point, a child beggar made such a beeline towards me that he ran into a passing rickshaw and fell down. (He was okay).
These days, a lot of people are going on trips to see the glaciers in Alaska before they all melt and disappear forever from global warming.
Perhaps these folks have the same thought I had in Tibet about witnessing what’s before them: Precious, but doomed.